A Better Birdhouse
Shared by: Michael Lee - CAS Member
Reference: The Parrot Breeder's Answer Book
Bird Housing
There is a simple saying about breeding parrots. They will not produce unless they are comfortable, happy and secure. Improper caging can be a major factor in breeding failures, yet it is usually one of the most overlooked problems. You must also be particular that the cage design works well for you. Otherwise, you will curse it every time you struggle with bulky locks, sticking trays, or hard-to-clean nooks and corners. Caging mistakes are costly and frustrating. Therefore, spending a little time doing your planning first might save you lots of time and money.
Before you start, you must first decide where you are going to put the birds. lf you live in a warm climate and have enough land, you might decide to build outdoor cages and flights. lf you live in an apartment/condominium or confined to a small suburban lot, then the birds will most likely be in cages (indoor cages) in your house. Either way, you should carefully consider where you are going to place the cages for optimum safety and convenience.
Cage Size for your Bird
The outdoor breeders and the indoor breeders often disagree about what constitutes proper cage sizing. For example, some people will claim that cockatiels need to be kept in huge flight cages at least 3 feet (1m) long in order to breed. Other breeders insist that their cockatiels breed happily in a small, welded-wire cage in one corner of the house. The truth is that there is no single right answer, no simple formula, to determine proper cage sizing. In general, "the bigger, the better" is the usual rule for cage sizing. However, the most important measure of suitability is how your birds act in the cage. If the birds seem irritable, restless, or spend an inordinate amount of time hanging on the wires, it might be too small. If they huddle in a far corner and seem fearful, the cage may be too large and open, and they feel vulnerable as a result.
As a general rule, a cage for a single pet bird should be at least one and a half times the width of the bird's wingspan. Therefore, a bird that has a wingspan of 14-16 inches (36-40 cm) should be in a cage at least 24 inches (60 cm) wide. This is a minimum recommendation. In most cases, bigger is better. Of course, when you put a pair into the cage, it needs to be roughly twice as large to provide both birds with suitable room. Active species, such as cockatoos, might need even more space. On the other hand, some African parrots seem to feel insecure in large cages and might do better in a slightly smaller enclosure. Once again, knowing your birds is very important.
Caging Requirements
To determine if your cage is the right size, ask yourself the following questions:
- Do the birds have plenty of room to move about freely and flap their wings?
- ls the cage large enough to allow more than one perch to be placed inside?
- ls there enough space to put toys into the cage without over-crowding?
- Do the birds have enough room to get away from each other if they begin to get on each other's nerves?
If you could not answer yes to each of these questions, then the cage is wrong. Never, under any circumstances, attempt to keep a pair of birds in a cage that is too small. They will suffer both physically and emotionally from the stress and from the lack of room to exercise. If you do not have the space, then try to think it over again...
Flight Cages
Flight cages can be made of the same materials as suspended cages. However, flights extend to the ground and are usually larger. Parrot flights look much like covered dog houses. If these birds are positioned indoors, the panels can be set directly onto a tiled or concrete floor, and the top is covered with another panel. The flights are 6 feet (1.8 m) high so anybody can step inside to sweep and mop the floor. For around 3,000 pesos, anyone can make an easy-to-maintain cage. Outdoor flights are not as simple. ldeally, the base should be made of concrete, with a slight slope to facilitate drainage. lf its hard to create a concrete base, then the wire must be buried several inches into the ground to keep predators out and other birds in. Many species of parrots are quite adept at digging (especially cockatoos). They will merrily tunnel their way to freedom unless the wire is well buried. Allow some distance of at least 4 inches (10 cm) between flights so that the birds cannot fight with other birds in the next cage. Some species even require visual barriers between flights or they will not breed. Of course, the need for roofing and safety nets is the same for flights as it is for suspended cages. Forty-percent (40%) of the top panel (roofing) may be exposed open for the rain so the birds can have shower if they wanted to during rainy days.
Click here to exit.
There is a simple saying about breeding parrots. They will not produce unless they are comfortable, happy and secure. Improper caging can be a major factor in breeding failures, yet it is usually one of the most overlooked problems. You must also be particular that the cage design works well for you. Otherwise, you will curse it every time you struggle with bulky locks, sticking trays, or hard-to-clean nooks and corners. Caging mistakes are costly and frustrating. Therefore, spending a little time doing your planning first might save you lots of time and money.
Before you start, you must first decide where you are going to put the birds. lf you live in a warm climate and have enough land, you might decide to build outdoor cages and flights. lf you live in an apartment/condominium or confined to a small suburban lot, then the birds will most likely be in cages (indoor cages) in your house. Either way, you should carefully consider where you are going to place the cages for optimum safety and convenience.
Cage Size for your Bird
The outdoor breeders and the indoor breeders often disagree about what constitutes proper cage sizing. For example, some people will claim that cockatiels need to be kept in huge flight cages at least 3 feet (1m) long in order to breed. Other breeders insist that their cockatiels breed happily in a small, welded-wire cage in one corner of the house. The truth is that there is no single right answer, no simple formula, to determine proper cage sizing. In general, "the bigger, the better" is the usual rule for cage sizing. However, the most important measure of suitability is how your birds act in the cage. If the birds seem irritable, restless, or spend an inordinate amount of time hanging on the wires, it might be too small. If they huddle in a far corner and seem fearful, the cage may be too large and open, and they feel vulnerable as a result.
As a general rule, a cage for a single pet bird should be at least one and a half times the width of the bird's wingspan. Therefore, a bird that has a wingspan of 14-16 inches (36-40 cm) should be in a cage at least 24 inches (60 cm) wide. This is a minimum recommendation. In most cases, bigger is better. Of course, when you put a pair into the cage, it needs to be roughly twice as large to provide both birds with suitable room. Active species, such as cockatoos, might need even more space. On the other hand, some African parrots seem to feel insecure in large cages and might do better in a slightly smaller enclosure. Once again, knowing your birds is very important.
Caging Requirements
To determine if your cage is the right size, ask yourself the following questions:
- Do the birds have plenty of room to move about freely and flap their wings?
- ls the cage large enough to allow more than one perch to be placed inside?
- ls there enough space to put toys into the cage without over-crowding?
- Do the birds have enough room to get away from each other if they begin to get on each other's nerves?
If you could not answer yes to each of these questions, then the cage is wrong. Never, under any circumstances, attempt to keep a pair of birds in a cage that is too small. They will suffer both physically and emotionally from the stress and from the lack of room to exercise. If you do not have the space, then try to think it over again...
Flight Cages
Flight cages can be made of the same materials as suspended cages. However, flights extend to the ground and are usually larger. Parrot flights look much like covered dog houses. If these birds are positioned indoors, the panels can be set directly onto a tiled or concrete floor, and the top is covered with another panel. The flights are 6 feet (1.8 m) high so anybody can step inside to sweep and mop the floor. For around 3,000 pesos, anyone can make an easy-to-maintain cage. Outdoor flights are not as simple. ldeally, the base should be made of concrete, with a slight slope to facilitate drainage. lf its hard to create a concrete base, then the wire must be buried several inches into the ground to keep predators out and other birds in. Many species of parrots are quite adept at digging (especially cockatoos). They will merrily tunnel their way to freedom unless the wire is well buried. Allow some distance of at least 4 inches (10 cm) between flights so that the birds cannot fight with other birds in the next cage. Some species even require visual barriers between flights or they will not breed. Of course, the need for roofing and safety nets is the same for flights as it is for suspended cages. Forty-percent (40%) of the top panel (roofing) may be exposed open for the rain so the birds can have shower if they wanted to during rainy days.
Click here to exit.
